 Known as fertile ground for young talent (Quinn and Karen Hatfield, Louis Maldonado, Seth Bowden), Cortez has found another winning chef in Jenn Puccio, whose beautiful seasonal plates easily match---and occasionally surpass---those of her predecessors. Under new ownership (Ron Silberstein of Thirsty Bear), the sexy slip of a dining room and bar remains happily unchanged but for a refreshed positivity in service. Designed by Michael Brennan and ensconced in the Hotel Adagio, the narrow room features a stylish, urban vibe, drawing local sophisticates for upmarket dates and small group dining. A letterbox window onto the exhibition kitchen creates a subtle stage. Regulars delight in the menu’s traditions: the farm-fresh soup shots, for example. Inspired small plates feature bright, well chosen ingredients, and in Puccio’s hands a slow-roasted baby beet salad with burrata and herbs becomes a miniature Chihuly garden of color and form. The slow-cooked Jidori egg of past dishes now rests in a lovely, compressed “nest” of Parmesan, risotto and truffle. Compositions are artful and balanced, and playful with texture and temperature. Larger plates include tender pan-seared Pekin duck breast, swiped with a precise calligraphy of dusky reduction, chanterelles, leeks and wild arugula; Alaskan halibut is seared and met with just-warm heirloom tomato gazpacho, poured tableside. Good cocktails and an extensive international wine list provide fine complement. Seasonal desserts are less consistent but innovative: try the pistachio crusted french toast with maple-glazed huckleberries and pancetta ice cream. |
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Set the mood for love by reserving a table at one of the Best Romantic Restaurants in San Francisco, or view our list of Valentines Restaurants to find out which restaurants are offering unique menus just for February 14. Also, see who sets the standard for seductive dining across the country with our Top 10 Romantic Restaurants in the U.S. list.
