Cotton & Rye

Cotton & Rye Restaurant Review:

About the restaurant and décor: Built in 1953 as a bank, this white brick building has been masterfully transformed into a comfortable, contemporary dining space, with a large bar, halogen lights, simple window treatments (blinds) and exposed industrial elements along the ceiling. Modern artwork keeps the walls from seeming unfriendly.

Likes: The frisky wine list.
Dislikes: None.

About the food: Chef/partner Brandon Whitestone was trained in New England, but he seems to have taken to Southern flavors without trying to impose northern notions on the region's dishes, although his juicy fried chicken thighs come with a side of honey that one may ignore. The dish arrives with a very good mac 'n' cheese that doesn't try to show off incongruous ingredients. Whitestone comfortably takes to traditional Southern elements, such as sorghum lacing roasted carrots. Vegetables are abundant on the menu, so vegetarians will have no trouble composing a proper plate. Raw materials are often pickled or roasted, adding distinctive notes. The menu changes with the seasons, as Whitestone is a confirmed believer in local and seasonal. Desserts will encompass tradition but with contemporary approaches, so look for a north Georgia apple bread pudding or a classic buttermilk pie but made with chocolate.

About the drinks: Brandon's wife Kimberly handles the wine list, and we were delighted to find a rarely seen Kerner from northern Italy, ideal with the fried chicken. Local brews and uptown distilled spirits enhance the experience.