THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES The Covey

THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES The Covey Restaurant Review:

Chef Matthew Bolton lives and breathes Carmel Valley's natural surroundings, putting local bounty on a pedestal, but not ignoring other worthy out-of-town products. Cooking at Quail has its advantages; the chef is privy to top flight ingredients from Colorado lamb to Hudson Valley foie gras. Bolton's commitment to the Peninsula shines with an appetizer of Monterey Bay abalone; his preparation features a vibrant green garlic purée and artichoke barigoule---two big local stars utilized creatively, not to mention artfully. Another winner: Sonoma duck breast with melted leeks and chanterelles, the duck's pan-sear a match for its luscious vegetable comrades. Golden tilefish from Florida, unfortunately, lack flavor. We enjoy looking more than eating; the Parmesan foam disappears before we can begin to scratch its surface. The baby veal's perfectly cooked meat is a show-stopper; so is the Yukon potato "risotto" with Oregon morels. Don't overlook the cheese menu for dessert---or just to enjoy on its own with wine director Michael Marcy's big wine list. Epoisee comes with port-poached huckleberries; Petit Basque with Marcona almonds. Enjoy a cocktail at the thoroughly hip bar that lights up from below and have a go of the "Sample, Savor, Celebrate" menu served for a one-hour window (daily 5 p.m.-6 p.m.) where small plates like a zealously parsleyed duck rillette and rabbit terrine rule. The better bite: a grilled asparagus salad for earthy flavor. Take advantage of Bolton's "sunset" menu; enjoy the three-course $42 dollar deal between 6 p.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Marcy will walk you through the wine list; his easy manner puts you at ease just as easily as the serene view of Quail's lush landscaping.