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Cowbell Restaurant Review: A circa-1940s former gas station was transformed into this hip, neighborhood restaurant. Chef Brack May’s regional American cooking is served in a casual, brightly decorated space; we like the bell jar chandelier and the marshmallow tin lamps. Straightforward dishes include Gulf shrimp quesadillas, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, pork tenderloin with herbed grits, and pork tacos al pastor. May offers rotating specials, such as a chicken fried oyster salad, and a roasted vegetable tart with fresh herbs. For dessert, there’s the “Chocolate City,” a flourless chocolate cake, and apple pie that get most of the buzz. This is not the place to look for fine wines, but a cold beer or a stiff Bloody Mary are yours for the asking. Servers could not be friendlier.