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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Crown

24 E. 81st St. (Madison Ave.) Send to Phone
646-559-4880
Sophisticated French dining on the Upper East Side.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Dinner nightly, Brunch Sun.
Open late Fri.-Sat.
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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Crown Restaurant Review

: Chef-proprietor John DeLucie, who runs The Lion in the West Village, has melded downtown hipness with uptown elegance at this hard-to-nab-a-seat Upper East Side eatery. With three dining spaces, starting with a long but intimate bar, and continuing into a clubby wood-paneled dining room and an art-filled back-room, Crown excels at providing notable French cuisine in an equally polished setting. The restaurant is a scene, populated by both residents of the tony neighborhood and those feeling the trendy yet upscale vibe. Starters like Tasmanian trout tartare are expertly prepared, fresh and a bit daring with pumpernickel crisps and caperberry rémoulade. Main courses are pricey but worth it, including seared Maine diver scallops accompanied by escargots to add a bit of brininess. Two meaty lamb chops, plated with Swiss chard and chanterelles, are edged with a crusty blend of salt and pepper that seals in the flavor and moisture. Ask wine director Jordan Salcito for suggestions from the restaurant’s 200-bottle list; her enthusiastic and knowledgeable description of each wine is like hearing poetry to the grape. Leave room for pastry chef Heather Bertinetti’s signature creation, the warm chocolate soufflé, which your adept server will dress with malted English cream.

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