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Dakota Restaurant Review: The restaurant scene on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain has become increasingly competitive over the last decade, but Dakota remains a fine dining anchor in the Covington community. Owner-chef Kim Kringlie uses quality Louisiana ingredients as a starting point in his cooking, and improvises on old standards, often with creative interpretations. Among imaginative small plates is shrimp mirliton casserole. Lump crab meat and Brie cheese soup is a Dakota classic, and is about as rich as a dish can get. Entrées are generously portioned and equally inventive: bronzed redfish and bacon-wrapped, boudin-stuffed quail. For the finale, consider the coconut cake, a signature item. The wine list offers more than 25 choices in Champagnes and sparkling wines alone. A range of wine-growing regions is represented, with many value-priced selections. Wines are served in Riedel glassware. The young service staff adds its energy and enthusiasm to the management's good sense of organization.