 Wynn Las Vegas is attempting to redefine the dining scene by having all the chefs at their many restaurants present and accounted for in the kitchen. With one exception. Wesley Holton, who learned his way around über-chef Daniel Boulud’s kitchens in New York City and Palm Beach, Florida, is carrying the banner for his mentor at his eponymous brasserie, a rather grand place that fronts a tranquil lake with a cascading water wall. You can't see the Strip from here, but rather a forested mountain and a holographic light show that has lookie-loos trying to peer in even when they are not dining. We find the food is mostly a grand success as well, including a charcuterie platter stocked with the chef's peerless rillettes and pâtés; meaty, meltingly tender braised short ribs; huge platters of fruits de mer; and gooey brasserie desserts like the milk chocolate parfait with hazelnuts and milk chocolate ice cream. Even though you are not likely to spot Boulud himself here, little of his reputation, or imprimatur, is lost.
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