The Deer and The Dove

The Deer and The Dove Restaurant Review:

About the chef: Chef-owner Terry Koval, a South Carolinian, possesses culinary experience that includes serving as executive sous chef of Canoe, and as executive chef of the original Farm Burger and later Wrecking Bar Brewpub, an Inman Park brewery and restaurant. He is a passionate champion of cooking with seasonal, local raw materials, and imbues regional fare --– especially game –-- with a contemporary sensibility.

About the décor: Lots of two-top tables enable couples dining, while a six-top round handles large parties. Tables also back up to a banquette that lines the far wall, and there is a pair of booths for four. Hunting trophies snagged by Koval’s dad reinforce the lively restaurant’s theme, as does a four-part panel by artist Patrick Nguyen, who goes by “Dozfy.” On its black background, a chalk drawing of a buck with its head lowered eyes a bird on a nearby branch.

Likes: The creative menu organization allows customizing the dining experience and controlling the cost.
Dislikes: The elevated noise level.

About the food & drinks: The menu enables dining on a small or large scale and is divided into unorthodox segments: Land; Sea; Air; Pasta + Grain; Plants + Paired. We savored the rabbit liver pâté, spreading its creamy richness on grilled, buttered house-made bread. The “Weekly Salad Picking” specifics will vary seasonally, but the ideal amount of dressing binds whatever comes to the table. Stuffed with pork sausage, the quartered Satsuma-lacquered quail rests atop South Carolina’s Geechie Boy Mill polenta. Skillfully grilled scallops with sweetbreads nestle under a sunchoke foam dusted with hazelnuts. Guests may sample fine local cheeses. For dessert, choose the crème caramel, cheekily topped with popcorn and bedecked with sorghum syrup, a Southern delight. Georgia's Still Pond Distillers 229 American Gin is the foundation of a number of the creative cocktails. “Perfectly Peared” is delectable and blends the gin with pear liqueur and a hint of rosemary. The short but smart wine list features well-priced choices that support the menu. Adjacent B-Side offers breakfast (get a wood-fired bagel) and lunch plus operates as a coffee and wine bar.