THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Dennis Foy

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Dennis Foy Restaurant Review:

After making a name for himself at Midtown’s Mondrian in the ’80s and the West Village’s quaint EQ in the ’90s, Dennis Foy quietly took a hiatus from Manhattan, choosing to spread his culinary know-how across the river in New Jersey. Now he’s back in lofty TriBeCa digs where old fans are happy to know that he continues to add colorful touches to French-American flavors. Foy gussies up a lump crab tian with paprika, cayenne and thyme, for example, and luxuriates delicate fettuccine ribbons with a veal and foie gras ragù. Even tuna tartare escapes boredom with tiny apple dice and pappadum, while thick, rich short ribs show a less exotic, homey side. Scallops served with bitter cabbage and sweet parsnip purée combine for a jarring trio, however, while a cardamom-apple-pumpkin crisp brings a bracing end. The room nods to the neighborhood’s artistic bent with colorful (if somewhat loud) ceiling beams, pretty rose-colored silk chandeliers and artwork by the chef himself, a just reminder of his creativity and of how the culinary scene must have missed Foy.