* Click here for rating key
Depot Hotel Restaurant & Garden Restaurant Review: Depot Restaurant’s 1870 stone façade at one time welcomed train passengers disembarking across the street with the promise of a room and hot meal. Though overnighters are gone and the depot is now a museum, it’s still easy to conjure up history in the venerable dining room. Grab a porch or sunroom seat overlooking the secluded brick patio and spouting pool where cherub statues have witnessed many wedding receptions. Reading the Italian menu, one might reckon the food could also evoke yesteryear. But no: not with chef Antonio Ghilarducci’s formative experiences in the kitchens of The French Laundry and Redd. In 2008, he relieved his dad Mike's quarter-century stint behind the Depot's stove, not aiming to deconstruct, but to execute classics so they’re spot-on and spry. It’s a pleasure to order such dishes as veal scallopine, the charred beef plush inside, with vigorous green peppercorn jus and snappy yellow garden string beans; or orecchiette in browned butter sweet from shallots and bright cherry tomatoes. Try a range of antipasti including house-made pork terrine or headcheese, marinated artichokes, or cannellini beans and tuna spiked with red wine vinegar, or a sophisticated pistachio studded foie gras torchon sprinkled with salt crystals and paired with caramelized pineapple and arugula. The owner’s wines appear with local and Italian selections.