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Desert Fish Restaurant Review

4214 Central Ave. SE (Sierra Dr.) Send to Phone
AlbuquerqueNM 87108
505-266-5544 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
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A desert oasis of contemporary Pacific Northwest cuisine. Desert Fish Restaurant is one of our 2012 Hot 10 Albuquerque Restaurants|

Cuisine

Open

Lunch Tues.-Sun., Dinner nightly

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Clean and pretty in shades of blue and beige, lined with blond wood and anchored by a totem pole, this Pacific Northwest oasis in the desert is the pride of a Seattle transplant, owner Peter Martin. Just as the wine list emphasizes West Coast labels, so the menu is awash in seafood prepared with finesse. For starters, the selection of oysters on the half-shell is as good as that of some coastal raw bars, and salads display sophistication in spades --- think seared scallops and crab-stuffed shiitakes over spinach and endive in warm bacon-balsamic vinaigrette. To follow, the signature cioppino is a faithful rendering of San Francisco’s famous stew, full of shellfish as well as salmon in an herbed tomato broth, while classic linguine alle vongole gets a smart, fresh makeover with oven-roasted tomatoes and braised chard. The relative simplicity of the repertoire has a twofold advantage, showcasing the quality of the raw materials on the one hand and ensuring consistency from a mostly impressive kitchen that’s still getting its sea legs on the other. Desserts are passable if sweets are a must, but we’d just as soon order another round of oysters on the half-shell, paired with surprisingly decent cocktails like the gin-and-ginger-based Ginger Zen Press with cucumber and mint, and call it a satisfying night.

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