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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Desert Fish Restaurant Review: Clean and pretty in shades of blue and beige, lined with blond wood and anchored by a totem pole, this Pacific Northwest oasis in the desert is the pride of a Seattle transplant, owner Peter Martin. Just as the wine list emphasizes West Coast labels, so the seasonal menu is awash in seafood prepared with finesse. For starters, the selection of oysters on the half-shell is as good as that of some coastal raw bars, and salads display sophistication in spades --- think braised leeks tossed with chilled potatoes and capelin roe in vinaigrette made from crème fraîche and Champagne. Entrées that follow point to the kitchen’s admirable ambition, ranging from a duo of braised pork belly and piñon-crusted scallops in maple brown butter to prosciutto-wrapped salmon with creamed lentils and cantaloupe jus --- chefly creativity is at a pitch rarely reached around here. Desserts are passable if sweets are a must, but we’d just as soon order another round of oysters on the half-shell, paired with zippy cocktails like the jalapeño margarita with honey simple syrup and cilantro, and call it a satisfying night. We might even return for weekend brunch, when tamales stuffed with fried rock shrimp and smothered in red chile await.