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Diavola Pizzeria Restaurant Review: At the far reaches of Sonoma wine country, in the two-block town of Geyserville, wayward visitors browse the creaky mercantile for bib overalls and spurs, then cross the street to sample artisan wines from snazzy tasting parlors. Diavola embraces that kind of duality, forging old-world pizzas and salumi with contemporary finesse. The space: century-old brick with a tin ceiling, bare bulb lighting, a long bar beneath a rusty rail track with hooks dangling house-cured meats. Diavola means devilish, an homage to the crimson-hued, wood-fired oven altar at the back which, perhaps as countermeasure, has saint statues set into its outer dome. Worship the revolving array of house-made meats, whether as antipasti, pizza toppings or take-aways from the deli case; examples may include smoldering Calabrese salami, head cheese with lemon zest or Milanese salami with white pepper and ginger. Eight or so pizzas come charred and thin-crusted with spare and savvy seasonal toppings, perhaps sweated onions, sausage, rosemary and provolone, or salami, green garlic, Parmesan and arugula pesto. Or, mix and match ambitious starters such as octopus with chickpeas, ox tongue and egg salad, grapefruit with smoked trout, or roasted bone marrow. Homemade pastas such as potato gnocchi with seasonal vegetables and wild mushroom ravioli are not to be missed. Wines skew Italian and Cal-Ital.