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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The Dining Room at Jack's Restaurant Review: We are entranced by Tony DiSalvo's food. This former executive chef of Jean Georges (as in Vongerichten) brings to San Diego his brand of California-French cuisine at this La Jolla hot spot. The beauty of his menu lies in the subtly layered, well-researched recipes. His are dishes to be savored: take time to smell the aromas, visually feast on the artful presentations and, of course, taste the complex blends of flavors. The richness of a Maine diver scallop is offset by delicate rose gelatin and sharp wasabi. He blends the lightness of raw blue fin tuna with rich, cappuccino-style grilled mushroom broth, and surprises us by combining steamed black sea bass, potatoes and leek with piquant lime. The Muscovy duck entrée should be eaten ritualistically, including a bit of each ingredient in each bite for the full effect---confit of kumquat, parsnip and a crumble of cocoa and cloves. Other not-to-be-missed dishes include the foie gras with passion fruit-red wine sauce and baby bok choy; butter-poached Maine lobster risotto with apple and keffir lime broth; and celery root velouté with black truffle agnolotti, butterscotch froth and ground sage. Desserts keep pace with the savory menu, each including an unexpected element like Thai basil, huckleberries, tamarind or fromage blanc. Untraditional palates should steer towards the rose Champagne gelatin with lemon and anise.