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DOC Restaurant Review: To reach the tiny (three tables) dining area, guests must walk past the open kitchen. But don't be misled by this homey intimacy: DOC is a special occasion restaurant. Its name stands for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata," the Italian classification for wine appellation, and it signifies the attention to terroir for both vino and food. The menu changes weekly depending on what's available from the region's farmers markets and food purveyors. You may order à la carte, but it's more fun to discover the five-course ($60) tasting menu. It's hard to say which treats might arrive at your table, but offerings have included risotto with chicken, spinach, green garlic and Parmesan; steelhead trout with cauliflower, walnut and chicory; wild king salmon with morels, grilled greens, gnocchi and chestnuts; and an elegant take on Portland's zoo favorite, “elephant ears.” An additional $40 --- well worth the money --- brings wine pairings from the knowledgeable house sommelier, or you may try your own hand with the extensive, all-Italian wine list.