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DOC Restaurant Review: The restaurant’s name stands for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata," the Italian classification for wine appellation, and it signifies this tiny bistro's attention to terroir for both vino and food. To reach the dining room, you must walk past the open kitchen. But don't be misled by this cozy intimacy, or by the homey storefront décor with checkered curtains: this is a special occasion restaurant. The three-entrée menu changes weekly depending on what's available from the region's farmers markets and food purveyors. You may order à la carte, but it's more fun to discover the five-course tasting menu for $60. It's hard to say what treats might arrive at your table, but offerings have included a crab risotto; pork sugo cavatelli; steelhead trout with cauliflower, walnut and chicory; pork loin with Catalan beans, tomato, bacon and collards; and an elegant take on that Portland zoo favorite, “elephant ears.” If wine tasting appeals, an additional $40 brings wine pairings from the house sommelier, or you can try your own hand with the extensive, all-Italian wine list.