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Ebisu is a longtime favorite with sushi connoisseurs. Four master sushi chefs make suggestions and occasionally dispense a seafood amuse-bouché. If it's available, get the toro (fatty tuna belly); the meat seems to melt in your mouth. The yellowtail, sea urchin and sweet shrimps are reliably first-rate (the last served with their tempura-fried heads). The oysters, served with lemon and ginger, are topnotch. Kitchen dishes are well prepared, but don't distract yourself from the sushi. Ebisu is no secret, and the no-reservations policy often means a long, long wait. |