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Edgewater Restaurant Restaurant Review: Italian restaurants abound on Long Island, but don’t miss sampling the menu at this Hampton Bays favorite. Edgewater’s modern interior is easy on the eyes but not necessarily on the ears, as it can get noisy, especially in high season; request instead a table on the outside terrace to enjoy your dinner. Fried calamari are a crispy delicacy, ideal for sharing as an appetizer; pistachio gnocchi, also a starter, is rich, but the small portion allows room to enjoy more food. Italian-American dishes like eggplant rollatini are done better elsewhere; opt instead for one of the specials, which are generally good, or a gourmet individual-size pizza, with toppings ranging from roast duck to goat cheese to pomegranate reduction. Among the many pasta dishes, the penne with alla mimo sauce --- prosciutto, mushrooms and Marsala --- is one of the restaurant’s best. Gluten-free pasta is available, too. California and Italian wines dominate the wine list, though some Long Island bottles are featured as well.