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Edgewater Restaurant Restaurant Review: Italian restaurants abound on Long Island, but don’t miss sampling the menu at this Hampton Bays favorite. Edgewater’s modern interior is easy on the eyes but not necessarily on the ears, as it can get noisy, especially in high season; request instead a table on the outdoor terrace. Crispy fried calamari are paired with both spicy marinara and pesto aïoli and are ideal for sharing as an appetizer; pistachio gnocchietti, also a starter, is rich, but the portion is small. Italian-American dishes like eggplant rollatini are done better elsewhere; opt instead for one of the specials or a gourmet individual-size pizza with toppings ranging from roast duck to goat cheese to pomegranate reduction. Among the many pasta dishes, penne with alla mimo sauce (prosciutto, mushrooms and Marsala) is one of the restaurant’s best. Gluten-free pasta is available, too. The Long Island locale means that seafood features heavily: roasted salmon is served with Mediterranean farro; flounder is stuffed with a combination of shrimp, scallops and crabs before being finished with a roasted garlic pomodoro sauce. California and Italian labels dominate the wine list, though some Long Island bottles are featured as well.