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Edgewater Restaurant Restaurant Review: Italian restaurants abound on Long Island, but don’t miss sampling the menu at this Hampton Bays favorite. Edgewater’s modern interior is easy on the eyes but not necessarily on the ears, as it can get noisy, especially in high season; request a table on the outdoor terrace to enjoy the variety of local seafood options on the menu. Crispy fried calamari are paired with spicy marinara and pesto aïoli and are ideal for sharing as an appetizer; pistachio gnocchietti, also a starter, is rich, but the portion is small. Italian-American dishes like eggplant rollatini are done better elsewhere; go for one of the specials or a gourmet individual-size pizza with toppings ranging from roast duck to grilled shrimp and rosemary chicken. House-made focaccia is used to make grill-pressed sandwiches featuring caponata, sliced steak, or chicken and avocado. Among the many pasta dishes, penne with alla mimo sauce (prosciutto, mushrooms and Marsala) is one of the restaurant’s best sellers. Gluten-free pasta is also available. The Long Island locale means that seafood features heavily: cod is served with an herb crust and puttanesca sauce; flounder is stuffed with a combination of shrimp, scallops and crabs before being finished with a roasted garlic pomodoro sauce. California and Italian labels dominate the wine list, though some Long Island bottles are featured as well.