* Click here for rating key
Eggshell Bistro Restaurant Review: Larry Hanes refers to his café dishes as global fusion, which is a good definition of the limited menu that features Chinese herbal tea-steeped eggs and shakshuka, a spicy Moroccan tomato sauce topped with kale, baked egg and feta cheese. The quintessential quiche for brunch or lunch is accompanied with a petite salad or fruit tasting, while the brioche french toast is paired with blueberry-fig chutney, toasted pecans and a medley of berries. Here flavors work without being contrived, as in the truffled egg brioche that is basically cheese toast beneath a poached egg, sautéed asparagus and just enough preserved lemon and Italian bottarga to cause a burst of flavor with each mouthful. Crispy sweet potato hash with chorizo or veggie sausage is anointed with a poached egg and just enough salsa to add a spicy element to the marriage of ingredients. Coffee is great, too. Service is slow though, as dishes are prepared as ordered, but time is well spent taking in the furnishings, from the bass fiddle hanging on the wall to the antique coffee cans used as sugar bowls (think Paris flea market). The weathered Tolix metal chairs and tiny tables, imported from a French café, may look uncomfortable, but one is in no hurry to rush off --- especially when finishing the last sips of coffee or brewed tea with a pastry of the day.