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El Centro D.F. Restaurant Review: Richard Sandoval’s El Centro D.F. buzzes on all its dining levels, with crowds and chattering heralding good times and food. Where to start with a menu that reads like a guidebook to Mexican street food? First, order a sumptuous guacamole made tableside and served with hot, crispy chips. Accompany this and the entire meal with one of the classic tequilas or mezcals (more than 200 different labels on hand) straight or mixed into a cocktail. Then restraint should kick in, or you will immediately fill the table and yourself. But where to draw the line? Musts include the pork carnitas either as an appetizer or entrée, followed by al pastor tacos (three to an order) and main course platters of chiles rellenos or carne asada with sautéed chiles poblanos. Save some room for the tres leches cake, a real treat. If you know Mexican food, you may hesitate in claiming this as authentic, but considering the local competition, El Centro makes a good impression with abundant portions, a variety of tequila-based cocktails, and its cheerful ambience. Because it is open midday, you may be more likely to get a seat; evenings tend to be packed and you should make a reservation.