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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Emeril's Atlanta Restaurant Review: The bayou meets Vegas in this dramatic space with a floor-to-ceiling temperature- and light-controlled circular wine cave. Over the bar, exotic woods undulate in a basket weave around a large “E,” for the showman chef himself, whose portrait stands guard over the bar. Despite Emeril Lagasse's connections with the Big Easy, very little of New Orleans appears in the menu line-up. Gumbo, andouille sausage and barbecued shrimp, a touch of olive salad on the calamari, something of a mixed metaphor, and a dense, classic bread pudding on the dessert list speak "N’awlins." Chef Brian Blatcher, an alumnus of the New Orleans operation, has re-directed this menu generally with good results. One exception: Oysters baked under a cheese sauce don't work---period. But plump soft-shell crabs on an unusual succotash sure do. The best value may well be the half roasted duck with sweet potatoes and Swiss chard. The Creole cream cheesecake, sadly, is gone, and we vote for its restoration, but the bread pudding is a good alternative. The wine list has many unusual selections, with many good ones offered by the glass, but at stiff prices. Reds still come too warm, so ask to have your bottle or glass slightly cooled. Service is friendly and brisk. Sitting at the "food bar" to chat it up with the kitchen staff as you enjoy your meal is way fun.