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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Enoteca Carbonari Restaurant Review: Enoteca Carbonari taps into the atmosphere, food and wine of an authentic Italian enoteca. The "carbonari" part of the name references the fact that the main cooking method is a wood-fired grill. But start with a selection of cured meats, choosing anywhere from one to four items from a long list. The small plates make for lovely pre-dinner noshing, or a good after-work snack before heading home. Fried gnocchi with prosciutto is just one example, and the guanciale (braised pork cheeks) are another, all designed as comfort food. Everything is worth a trip from the 'burbs. Desserts vary almost daily, but we recommend the goat milk ricotta-lemon cheesecake. And, of course, don't miss the espresso; even the decaf is worthy. The wine list plumbs the depths of Italian wines, with many first-rate choices offered by the glass.