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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Enoteca Vin Restaurant Review: Enoteca Vin, named for the modest wine shops that dot the Italian wine country, gives star billing to the grape in all its fermented glory. Choose your wine first here, from one of the most extensive wine cellars on the East Coast, a selection that boasts dozens of hard-to-find labels offered by the glass or three-ounce half-glass. Then order the food to match, choosing from an impressive assortment of house-cured meats, imported cheeses and chef Ashley Christensen’s seasonally changing bill of fare. For starters, don’t miss her trademark deviled eggs dusted with smoked paprika. The short but varied list of main dishes showcases Christensen’s philosophy of using only the best ingredients and preparing them without unnecessary adornment. On a given day, the list might include hanger steak with celery root purée and roasted turnips, brown butter scallops with braised fennel, and pan-seared North Carolina flounder with capers, roasted tomatoes and shallots.