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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Enotria Restaurant & Wine Bar Restaurant Review: Chef Pajo Bruich has elevated modern cuisine to a level otherwise unknown in Sacramento. Enotria has seen its share of talented toques, but Bruich has shifted directions entirely, using contemporary techniques to put a spin on traditional flavors. A good entry is the ever-changing charcuterie. Ours featured a chorizo pâté with pistachio and Moroccan spice, a duck prosciutto and a selection of pickled fruits, including a sweet-and-savory Korean-spiced pineapple. To experience all of what the kitchen has to offer, we recommend the tasting menu: a starter, small plate, entrée and dessert, each paired with wine. The briny squid starter, an ink-blackened airy chip reminiscent of a chicharron, topped with salmon roe and crème fraîche, tasted of the sea, while the pressed pork belly with accompanying kimchi sorbet highlighted the contrast of warm and cold, salty and tangy. The play of flavor and temperature was also evident in the beef tartare, the salty caper relish contrasting with frozen mustard pearls. A main course of roasted squab was meaty and flavorful, served alongside an earthy mustard green purée and offset by a caramelized yogurt foam. To finish, we recommend pastry chef Edward Martinez’ bourbon dessert, sweet vanilla peppered with pecan and maple, finishing with the slight tingle of tobacco on the tongue.