Estela

Estela Restaurant Review:

Blink and you'll miss the staircase leading up to this spot, which for years was the home of nolita House. Located a half-level above the sidewalk, Estela is led in the kitchen by Ignacio Mattos, of the much-heralded Isa. The sparsely decorated dining room makes sure all the attention is on the plate in front of you. Beef tartare, dotted with tiny bits of crisped sunchokes, is a must, and you may need more than one order. Grilled calamari with white pepper and spiced almonds and the shrimp with yogurt and horseradish are kicky and light. Or go for the burrata, served with fresh salsa verde and charred bread. The Mediterranean-influenced small plates are intended for sharing, though you'll likely want to keep every forkful for yourself. Consider the ricotta dumplings with mushrooms and sheep's milk cheese. For dessert, we suggest the grapefruit sorbet. The entirely European wine list is heavy on labels from Burgundy, both whites and reds, with a strong Riesling showing as well.