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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Evangeline Restaurant Review: This lively French restaurant employs a duck press in the midst of New England meat and potatoes cuisine, a good indication that something special is afoot. Just give 24 hours’ notice and the Muscovy duck comes out like butter, but with a crisp, dense skin you won't want to share. The stylized pig etched on Evangeline's large picture window hints at chef Erik Desjarlais' French sensibilities and a local cuisine ethic. The beef marrow outlines his philosophy nicely. Large bones house creamy, smoky fat; scoop it out with long spoons and spread it on crusty bread. Tarragon and Reggiano add flourish to escargots. If calf's brains are on the menu, you simply must order them. They're crisp outside, smooth as custard inside. You won't go wrong with the duck, but the milk-fed chicken tops it. Desjarlais knows his way around a vegetable and accompaniments are more than subtle reminders that seasonal gems grow nearby. Sweet white asparagus shines bundled in a ballotine of poularde with Australian truffles. Fennel and potatoes thrive in an earthy hash of Atlantic skate wing. Desserts are first-rate; a pot-de-chocolat is presented at the table in a large crock and spooned to order. The wine list offers a diverse domestic selection, but don't neglect the many bottles from France.