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Founded in 1987 by owner Antonio Guberti, Far Niente features a pair of cheerful storefront dining rooms that turn romantic at night, when candles flicker on the cozy tables. We recommend the more sophisticated wood-clad room to the left of the entrance, which has the look and feel of a San Francisco establishment. As soon as you're seated, a puffed-up loaf of pizza bread, fresh from the oven and brushed with olive oil, arrives at your table, along with generous shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Meals here begin with solid renditions of standard trattoria starters, such as minestrone, Caesar salad, beef carpaccio and fried calamari with marinara sauce. Pastas (e.g. rigatoni boscaiola, fettuccine with lobster and scallops in Cognac cream) and thin-crust pizzas are always reliable. And for entrées, you'll find a butter-tender calamari steak, New York steak with porcini mushrooms, and a butterflied veal chop. An unusually long list of daily specials might include rack of lamb, branzino, ahi and game dishes with refined sauces. Desserts---a deftly prepared thin apple tart, a winning tiramisu and an always interesting selection of house-made gelati---are consistently rewarding.
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