 No expense was spared to reshape this wide-open, contemporary dining space (once a cookie factory) and its clean, distinctive beauty is unquestionable down to the last design detail. Unique elements include repurposed furnishings---vintage 1930s elementary school chairs; reclaimed Genovese marble sinks and drain boards comprising the room’s lengthy, sculptural bar area---as well as dramatic, mod light fixtures and the factory’s original, scattered skylights that form an unusual pattern high above. A large communal table within and outdoor seating near the high-windowed storefront add further breadth. The food is Ligurian---the land of basil and pine nuts---and patrons may opt for the transportive house-made mandilli di seta (all pastas, breads and other preparations are visibly crafted in-house), topped with Genovese chef Paolo Laboa’s pesto. Antipasti include focaccia di Recco to share---thin and flaky, almost croissant-like, and stuffed with melted stracchino. Hand-stamped corzetti pasta the size of thumbprints ripple with al dente ridges. Plates are big, prices even bigger (antipasti average $14, primi $18), and portions (minus the focaccia)---not quite so big. An exception is the liberal two-inch filet mignon, coated in a rich, sweet, chocolate-hued salsa al balsamico. The wandering multitude of servers can seem above patronage, or they might be pleasant and attentive. The short list of Italian wines features options by the glass, quarter, half liter and bottle. (Photo by Cesar Rubio)
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