 Chef-owner Jay Foster has brought the casual soul of former ventures Emmy's Spaghetti Shack and the BlueJay Café to the Tenderloin with this design-rich take on the traditional Southern meeting spot. The wide, high space is interrupted by copper-topped tables and thick, square pillars dressed in tin-like distressed metal; bourbon-colored walls carry occasional, large pieces of moody portraiture. Bright details stand out, such as old-fashioned dishtowels for napkins, and mason jars brimming with fresh juleps, punches and coolers. Dreadlocked bartenders are silhouetted against white window drapery during the thriving happy hour along the eastern wall's full bar. The California-style soul cuisine, however, can be a bit inconsistent, with juicy Fulton Valley fried chicken too salty one night, bland the next. Organic, vegetarian jambalaya is healthy with greens, peppers, tomatoes and sweet onion but lacks an authentic kick. Other entrées include bacon wrapped poussin served with cornbread stuffing, Southern greens and huckleberry compote. Don't miss the venue's smaller, sweeter Southern indulgences---mini cornmeal muffins, mashed sweet potato and plantains, and pecan pie for dessert.
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