Traditional
but Modern
Lyon's Cuisine is Alive and
Well
Between Paris and the Côte d’Azur,
Lyon has always enjoyed gastronomy of
world-renown. Some of its glorious restaurants
did not survive, such as the illustrious La
Mère Brazier, but under the auspices of Paul
Bocuse, who will turn 81 on February 11, 2007,
a new generation of chefs has marched into the
kitchens, adding their own creativity to their
roots.
Lyon’s
cuisine is in great part built on the products
from its surrounding area: prime Charolais
beef, lambs and sheep from Loire and Auvergne,
Bresse poultry, butter and milk from the
mountains nearby.
Quality
is as strong as ever, with a new creative
attitude. The “Toques Blanches Lyonnaises” (an
association of eager chefs) has recruited new
members, totaling a hundred chefs, some of them
already well-known, but many belonging to the
new generation.
Olivier Paget of
Le Fleurie appears to be the
leader of this trend. Running his restaurant
with his wife Jacinthe and a lean staff, he
offers a wonderful menu every day with a
bargain prix-fixe price of just 13,50 Euros and
a magnificent Beaujolais wine list.
Joseph Viola, who won the distinctive
prize of “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” in 2004,
has settled in a landmark Lyonnaise "bouchon"
(local name for a typical bistro) called
Daniel et Denise. He kept
well-known dishes on his menu, such as the
famous “Tablier de sapeur,” tripe dipped in egg
and breadcrumbs, grilled and served with a
mayonnaise sauce composed of blended
hard-boiled egg yolks, capers and mixed herbs,
with chopped hard-boiled egg white
added.
Mathieu Viannay, another winner of
the “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” award, is also
typical representative of this new generation,
whose philosophy and goal is to please diners
at moderate prices. Viannay performs a sharp,
creative style of cuisine for a considerate
bill of fare at his establishment named after
himself, Mathieu
Viannay.
Another
development of note in Lyon is the renovation
of the wholesale food market, located in the
city center. As well, Mayor Gérard Collomb
plans to launch a federation of the gourmet
cities of Europe.
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