Traditional
but Modern
Lyon's Cuisine is Alive and Well
Between
Paris and the Côte d’Azur, Lyon
has always enjoyed gastronomy of world-renown. Some
of its glorious restaurants did not survive, such
as the illustrious La Mère Brazier, but under
the auspices of Paul Bocuse, who will turn 81 on February
11, 2007, a new generation of chefs has marched into
the kitchens, adding their own creativity to their
roots.
Lyon’s
cuisine is in great part built on the products from
its surrounding area: prime Charolais beef, lambs
and sheep from Loire and Auvergne, Bresse poultry,
butter and milk from the mountains nearby.
Quality
is as strong as ever, with a new creative attitude.
The “Toques Blanches Lyonnaises” (an association
of eager chefs) has recruited new members, totaling
a hundred chefs, some of them already well-known,
but many belonging to the new generation.
Olivier
Paget of Le
Fleurie appears to be the leader of this
trend. Running his restaurant with his wife Jacinthe
and a lean staff, he offers a wonderful menu every
day with a bargain prix-fixe price of just 13,50 Euros
and a magnificent Beaujolais wine list.
Joseph
Viola, who won the distinctive prize of “Meilleur
Ouvrier de France” in 2004, has settled in a
landmark Lyonnaise "bouchon" (local name
for a typical bistro) called Daniel
et Denise. He kept well-known dishes
on his menu, such as the famous “Tablier de
sapeur,” tripe dipped in egg and breadcrumbs,
grilled and served with a mayonnaise sauce composed
of blended hard-boiled egg yolks, capers and mixed
herbs, with chopped hard-boiled egg white added.
Mathieu
Viannay, another winner of the “Meilleur
Ouvrier de France” award, is also typical representative
of this new generation, whose philosophy and goal
is to please diners at moderate prices. Viannay performs
a sharp, creative style of cuisine for a considerate
bill of fare at his establishment named after himself,
Mathieu Viannay.
Another
development of note in Lyon is the renovation of the
wholesale food market, located in the city center.
As well, Mayor Gérard Collomb plans to launch
a federation of the gourmet cities of Europe.
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