Welcome
Mittel Europa
Romanian and Bulgarian
Cuisine in Paris
 People
here are intrigued, with mixed feelings though, by
the recent introduction of two new European Union
members: Bulgaria and Romania. Foodies wonder about
the potential contribution of these two Mittel Europa
states to modern or not-so-modern European gastronomy.
Scholars remind us that with King Burebis (born in
77 B.C.), the Romanians (then named Dacians) were
the true inventors of prohibition—alcohol was
totally banned from the kingdom of Dacia. Food writer
Jean-Claude Ribaut contends that the word “barbecue”
could very well find its source in the Romanian word
berbec, which means lamb. We are also reminded
that French King François I discovered in 1452
the virtues of yogurt thanks to Ottoman Sultan Mehmed
II (then ruling Bulgaria) who dispatched an ambassador
to France carrying a batch of the cultured milk as
a gift.
Romanian
cuisine differs from that of its southern neighbour,
Bulgaria. Both are rather rustic, but analysts find
that Bulgarian fare pays more attention to acidic
notes. Check for yourself, though, and discover these
exotic cuisines.
La
Thrace is a quaint place serving carefully
prepared Bulgarian cuisine. Starters include a Tarator
soupa, composed of fresh cucumber, yogurt with
a hint of garlic and anise. There is also a roasted
eggplant caviar called kiopolou and a luteniza,
grilled bell peppers in a tomato- garlic coulis. Iatsa
po panagurski is a poached egg on a bed of garlicky
yogurt with sweet paprika.
"Plats
de résistance" consist of minced pork
baked in the oven with carrots, gherkins and herbs,
or an agnechko s praz, which is lamb meat
simmered with leeks and onions. The kiselo zele
is a marmite of sour cabbage stuffed with pork meat,
raisins and a bouquet of spices. For
desserts, choices include the predictable baklava
and a strudel of apples, walnuts, cinnamon.
(La Thrace, 11, rue de Bagnolet, 75020, Paris. 01
44 93 74 70. Lunch & Dinner daily. Prix fixe €15,
€19, à la carte €30. Rating: 12/20)
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| Restaurant
Doïna |
For
a taste of Romania, the relaxed chef at Restaurant
Doïna delivers in a bric-à-brac
setting, creating a rustic cuisine generally faithful
to its origins. The Tuslama, a veal tripe
soup, is a bit lightened from the original recipe
that calls for it to be thicker. The Mamaliga
is a compact and hearty polenta suited for cold winter
nights. More appealing is the Pastrama, young
ram meat that has been cured, salted, spiced and smoked.
The
Sarmale is composed of a mixture of rice,
onions, minced pork meat and lard wrapped in a cabbage
leaf. The dish is abundantly spiced with paprika,
anise and sage. Mititei are small roasted
skinless sausages filled with pork, lamb and, yes,
horse meat. (Restaurant Doïna, 149, rue Saint
Dominique, 75007 Paris. 01 45 50 49 57. Lunch &
Dinner daily. Rating: 11/20)
Additional
Romanian Restaurants |
Elena
50,
bd de Picpus
75012 Paris
01 43 45 18 43
Open Lunch & Dinner Tues.-Sun.
Prix fixe: €10, €12.60, €18
Althanor
4, rue Crozatier
75012 Paris
01 43 44 49 15
Open Lunch & Dinner Tues.-Sun.
Chez
Christina
3, rue du Nil
75002 Paris
01 40 39 90 02
Open Lunch Mon.-Fri., Dinner Mon.-Sat.
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