From Los Angeles:
Don't Miss this Gardens Party
by André Gayot

What if Gardens, the pretty restaurant discretely sheltered behind flowers and luxuriant tropical plants in a quiet nook of The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, far from the brouhaha of the lobby, was the most representative among the few survivors of fine dining in Southern California? Here everything is luxury and distinction. And, there’s more to it than just its refined French, Louis XV style décor.

Not many individual entrepreneurs can nowadays afford to gather, from all over the world, the necessary components for such luxury and to display the results of their quest to the eyes of a public that doesn't necessarily realize the sum of talent, research, skills, professionalism, application and, of course money, that went into it.

An example? What restaurateur today can afford, in the semi tropical climate of Los Angeles, to present a tray of the world's best cheeses in a perfect state of presentation and consumption? This implies that within only a few days, the precious and fragrant products that did not sell must be withdrawn and replaced. At a cost. Where on the Pacific Rim, can you find in a restaurant a selection of the finest Brie de Meaux, Roquefort, and Reblochon from France, Gouda from Holland, Stilton from England along with the best American goat cheese productions from New England? This is the place.

Chef extraordinaire Conny Anderson supports this choice of excellence. Born into a family of cuisiniers, he left his native Sweden to roam the world. For a quarter of a century, he flirted with the cuisines of the five continents (including the celebrated L’Orangerie in Los Angeles), smelled the captivating spices of the Indian Ocean, the pungent exhalation of black truffles, the perfume of the herbes de Provence to finally settle at the helm of the kitchens at The Four Seasons. He has learned to dispense, with extreme moderation, scents and fragrances to concoct dishes of rare distinction. The lamb three ways, a double chop roasted with herbs, and an osso-bucco of lamb with goat cheese accompanied by moussaka, is a gustatory invitation to travel the Mediterranean basin from Provence to Greece via Tuscany. It's a trip we are prepared to take any time in the company of Conny. The Arborio rice that comes with the black bass along with delicately treated shitake and crispy potatoes is unforgettable as well as the garlic confit and the wine sauce accompanying the lobster. Rather than spreading his menu over numerous dishes, Conny prefers, rightly so, to devote all his attention on a handful of offerings among which it is difficult to make a decision. The five courses of the tasting menu ($60) will help to resolve your hesitations.

A considerable dilemma appears next. The cheese platter certainly is very tempting. But be aware that missing the desserts would be a big mistake. Pastry chef Donald Wressell is one of, if not the best, pastry chef in this country and beyond. Donald has lead the US National Pastry Cup Team in the World Pastry Cup in Lyon, France, and won the Gold Medal. You will understand why when savoring his oven-poached apple with a vanilla Bavarian, a green apple granité and a Fuji apple sorbet. This variation on the apple theme is an incredible exercise in dexterity and taste. The caramelized French Butter Pear Mille Feuille with vanilla ice cream constitutes the most creative revival of the traditional Napoléon.

With this pair of chefs, an evening at Gardens is worth every dollar it will cost—for if the prices are not cheap, they are not that far above of some local run-of-the-mill eateries. Gardens in Los Angeles is an exceptional experience only to be found in rare establishments. Enjoy them while they last because they, too, belong to an endangered species.

Gardens, The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Dr. Los Angeles, 310-273-2222.

(Updated: 07/08/08 HC)