From
Las Vegas
Guy Savoy's Cathedral
A Place for Serious Devotees to Celebrate
the New and Old Cult of Gastronomy
By
André Gayot
 Read
Our Restaurant Review of Guy Savoy
 |
High
ceilings fit for a cathedral |
When
you open the monumental and somewhat intimidating dark wooden
door into Guy Savoy’s super chic Las
Vegas Strip restaurant, you should also open your eyes
and your mind. Veer left into the Champagne bar on the second floor of the Augustus Tower of the Caesars
Palace. The Champagne officiator, the seasoned Bernard,
who probably knows your first name and your pedigree, will
walk you to the main hall. Raise your eyes and you will get
the subtle message. The high ceiling tells it all: the proportions
are that of a cathedral, emphasized by the presence of an
oversized ogival window, which is only missing stained glass
to finalize the impression that this is a place where services
are held to honour a cult. Architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte,
who designed the original Guy
Savoy as well as parts of the new Louvre in Paris,
has designed a deliberately simple yet elegant high temple
of gastronomy, seating 75. A few paintings dot the grey walls
alternating with dark wood panels, so nothing is meant to
distract the attention that serious diners should only devote
to their plates. Décor, of course, is not edible.
 |
"Colors
of Caviar" à la Savoy |
You
have to know a little bit about Guy Savoy to situate and appreciate
his cuisine. First, Savoy is the youngest and probably the
last of the legends who invented "Nouvelle
Cuisine." Younger than the Bocuses, the Guérards,
and the Senderens,
but completely sharing their enthusiasm and their new approach
to cooking, taking advantage of their experience and their
mistakes, he is most likely the only one who is able to interpret
and amend the ten commandments of the “Nouvelle.”
Second, Savoy is a kung fu master, adept in Zen philosophy.
For him, whether in life or in cuisine, frills and flounces
are unnecessary. Hence the Zen-like décor and the rare
bill of fare.
Let’s
peruse the menu to detect what’s really Savoy’s
world of savors. Take the “colors of caviar,”
for instance. Obsessed with the color green, Savoy dismisses
traditional blinis as the accompaniment of caviar and invents
a bed of green beans for the black pearls of the Caspian sturgeon.
With a white vinaigrette and sabayon, not only does the caviar
shine under new colors, but it acquires a sublime taste. The
experience is an unforgettable adventure, albeit costly.
 |
Red
cabbage "nage" for the foie gras |
Where
in the world could this idea of setting these royal eggs on
a modest garden vegetable possibly stem from? Although Savoy
is not a devotee of molecular cuisine and won’t admit
it, he does flirt with the concept a tad. His idea consists
of sublimating the essence of the product by determining what
is the catalyst or the detonator that will trigger a chain
reaction, rather than just marrying it with the more or less
usual compatible and accepted companions. The problem is,
research for the miraculous formula can end up in a sheer
contradiction. Savoy knows that the research of originality
is not a goal in itself and proceeds cautiously and prudently
in the uncharted territories of the alchemies of savors.
Another
example of his well-contained research lies in his treatment
of another royal product, foie gras. What apparently could
be more antinomian than a roasted foie gras and a soup? Even
if you call it a “nage,” a red cabbage soup is
just a basic peasant dish. However, the pairing works just
fine, as a spoonful of “nage” to wash down the
foie gras makes you discover an extraordinary new facet of
the already delightful liver.
Savoy
also shows his unique savoir-faire and earns his top
chef ranking with his signature dish: the “côte”
de gros turbot, in which the fish is steamed with spinach
and a poached egg on a slotted platter atop a soup bowl filled
with fish bouillon. Flavors percolate, infuse and interact,
creating an exceptional bouquet of combined aromas.
 |
Oyster
in ice gelée |
He
has not forgotten his young days at the illustrious Troisgros,
either, where apprenticing in the classical techniques of
the French culinary traditions, he learnt—he says—everything
from the famous brothers/chefs/restaurateurs. He is proud
and grateful to be considered one of their most faithful and
truest heirs. This heritage looms large with the more classic
dishes like the roasted veal chop with a truffle potato purée
with veal jus, the roasted duckling with citrus scented turnips,
or the crispy veal sweetbreads. Lucky for us, in many of his
dishes, Savoy is quite generous in his use of black truffles.
His oysters in ice gelée show how he combines the traditional
with the contemporary.
A
cheese cart presents twenty or more varieties of the best
French cheeses, while a dessert cart also makes its rounds.
Many of Savoy’s best are based on fresh fruits, with
the exception of the delicate chocolate ganache infused with
Tonka beans. The impressive 1,500-bottle wine list is mainly
French, naturellement, and ranges from old and rare
vintages to affordable choices. The service is as perfect
as it gets.
 |
Guy
Savoy cooks the traditional way: Guinea hen in a pig bladder |
In
order to meet his high standards, Savoy sent his son Franck,
who managed his Parisian restaurants, (Le
Chiberta, La
Butte Chaillot, L'Atelier
Maître Albert and Les
Bouquinistes), to Las Vegas one year prior to the opening
to find the best workers and products available locally. He
proclaims he is happy with the "local" ingredients,
except for the truffles which he imports. Along with his charming
wife Laura, Franck, as general manager, will run the show
in Las Vegas, while Guy promises to do frequent stints. Two
of his executive chefs from Paris, Damien Dulas and Laurent
Solivérès, will alternate behind the stoves
in Las Vegas.
Savoy’s
successful arrival puts him at the top echelon of the Las
Vegas restaurant scene. Not only because he is a world celebrity,
but also because he is the simplest and most open-minded man
you can meet in this industry. He is a real person, not just
a name. After worshipping his food at his cathedral in the
desert, you may be tempted to address him as His Eminence,
but he is the kind of human being you would like to call your
friend.
 The
seven-course Prestige Menu is $290.
Restaurant
Guy Savoy
Caesars
Palace
3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-731-7286
www.guysavoy.com
|
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