From
Minneapolis:
French-Mediterranean
Fusion
La
Fougasse
Whenever
we dine at La
Fougasse at Sofitel
Minneapolis, we always find ourselves thinking that it
doesn’t feel like an ordinary hotel restaurant. Maybe
it’s the extended family we saw last time—gathered
at a round table in front of the fireplace singing happy birthday
to a beaming patriarch. No matter what the occasion, the place
has an inviting vibe—definitely not the dreary atmosphere
that often pervades hotel dining rooms that cater to out-of-towners.
There’s no doubt the décor helps conjure a festive
mood. Colorful mosaics wrap around huge pillars near the open
kitchen; bright blues, rich reds and sunflower yellows accent
the room—from menu covers to comfy banquettes following
the curve of the wall. Add a couple see-through fireplaces,
toss in a twinkle of lighthearted whimsy (check out the lamps)
and voilà: The scene is set. Best of all, the French-Mediterranean
fusion menu matches the mood—artsy, flavorful, serious
when it needs to be and fun when it doesn’t.
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Salmon
tower |
Whether
you’re here for lunch or dinner (the menu and prices
are identical), the meal commences with warm pretzel-like
bread—the "fougasse," a Provençal flatbread,
sturdy and dense. For appetizers, twosomes should try one
of the "Tasting Trees"—a lazy Susan-type affair
with three cold and three hot little platefuls of noshes per
tree. The popular Mediterranean version is our fave—cold
fresh shrimp tabbouleh, curried salmon and tuna tartare stuffed
in pastry, warm Italian sausage slices tangled among roasted
peppers.
Plenty of salads provide clean breaks before your entrée.
Good: crisp calamari atop citrus-spiked greens. Best: sliced
carpaccio-thin sea scallops layered with baby beets. For a
main course, a salad we highly recommend is the crab mixture
baked within flaky filo dough, a squiggle of saffron aïoli
adding a nice accent. Entrées range from lovely pan-seared
shrimp and asparagus risotto to savory rich osso buco to fragrant
bouillabaisse. Pastries
are made in-house, so you’d be doing yourself a très
terrible disservice not to order dessert. Sample chocolate
mousse encased in dainty triangles of sponge cake or warm
blueberry clafoutis served with homemade basil ice cream.
Service is gracious and knowledgeable; and the ever-evolving
wine list is well thought out.
P111405 |
(Updated: 07/09/08 HC) |
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