THIS
RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED
From
Minneapolis:
La Fougasse - Restaurant
Review
French-Mediterranean
Fusion
Whenever we dine at
La Fougasse at
Sofitel Minneapolis, we always find
ourselves thinking that it doesn’t feel like an
ordinary hotel restaurant. Maybe it’s the
extended family we saw last time — gathered at
a round table in front of the fireplace singing
happy birthday to a beaming patriarch. No
matter what the occasion, the place has an
inviting vibe — definitely not the dreary
atmosphere that often pervades hotel dining
rooms that cater to out-of-towners.
There’s no doubt the décor helps conjure a
festive mood. Colorful mosaics wrap around huge
pillars near the open kitchen; bright blues,
rich reds and sunflower yellows accent the room
— from menu covers to comfy banquettes
following the curve of the wall. Add a couple
see-through fireplaces, toss in a twinkle of
lighthearted whimsy (check out the lamps) and
voilà: The scene is set. Best of all, the
French-Mediterranean fusion menu matches the
mood — artsy, flavorful, serious when it needs
to be and fun when it doesn’t.
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Salmon tower
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Whether
you’re here for lunch or dinner (the menu and
prices are identical), the meal commences with
warm pretzel-like bread — the "fougasse," a
Provençal flatbread, sturdy and dense. For
appetizers, twosomes should try one of the
"Tasting Trees" — a lazy Susan-type affair with
three cold and three hot little platefuls of
noshes per tree. The popular Mediterranean
version is our fave — cold fresh shrimp
tabbouleh, curried salmon and tuna tartare
stuffed in pastry, warm Italian sausage slices
tangled among roasted peppers.
Plenty of salads provide clean breaks before
your entrée. Good: crisp calamari atop
citrus-spiked greens. Best: sliced
carpaccio-thin sea scallops layered with baby
beets. For a main course, a salad we highly
recommend is the crab mixture baked within
flaky filo dough, a squiggle of saffron aïoli
adding a nice accent. Entrées range from lovely
pan-seared shrimp and asparagus risotto to
savory rich osso buco to fragrant
bouillabaisse. Pastries
are made in-house, so you’d be doing yourself a
très terrible disservice not to order dessert.
Sample chocolate mousse encased in dainty
triangles of sponge cake or warm blueberry
clafoutis served with homemade basil ice cream.
Service is gracious and knowledgeable; and the
ever-evolving wine list is well thought
out.
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