Welcome to the Neighborhood
Allen & Delancey Shines on the Lower East Side
by John Mariani

Despite all the media hype about restaurants opening day by day on the Lower East Side, few endure and most are not places you'd go out of your way to get to, with the exception of a fully realized concept like wd-50.  So the addition of Allen & Delancey on the corner of those same streets by developer Richard H. Friedberg adds measurably to the neighborhood, taking over what had previously been the premises of the Salvation Army.

The designers have managed to echo the early 20th century ambiance in the restaurant, with exposed ceiling joists, wide-planked wooden floors, a hammered tin ceiling, and walls hung with "found" personal belongings of period photos, books, and children's toys, all of which makes this a cozy place to dine. The lighting could be a bit brighter and tablecloths would add measurably to the warmth of the room. When I ate there, canned music–a "staff mix”–threatened to pump up the decibel level, but they were nice enough to turn down the volume.

Chef Neil Ferguson, a year ago the first chef at Gordon Ramsay at The London, has created a well balanced, aptly sized menu of updated classic European, British and American dishes, and director-and-sommelier Glen Vogt–one of the most experienced professionals in New York–has crafted a 100-plus label of wines to go well with Ferguson's food, with a focus on small production vineyards from around the world, like Du Lot Soave Superiore, 2005 ($50), Ayres Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2005 ($66), and Numanthia Tinto de Toro, 2005 ($130). More wines under $40 a bottle would be even nicer.

Ferguson has an impressive pedigree in kitchens like Claridge's, Pied-à-Terre, The Square, The Connaught, and Aubergine in London before taking over Gordon Ramsay's New York operation, from which Ferguson was ousted when the restaurant failed to win four stars from The New York Times–not that Ramsay chose to spend much time in the kitchen, busy as he was reaming inept cooks on his Las Vegas TV show. Ferguson and Vogt also run a splendid Hudson Valley restaurant called Monteverde at Old Stone Manor, whose location 50 miles away means the two of them have to put a lot of mileage on their cars and strain on their time. I'd check to see if they're going to be at Allen & Delancey (A&D) before you go.

A&D has been packed since opening last fall, so the well-meaning service staff can become harried. You have to ask for bread and butter, and by all means do: it is terrific, and it goes very well with an impeccably made terrine of guinea hen with smoked ham knuckle, foie gras and beets–a truly wonderful melding of flavors. Sea scallops come with a celery cream, braised sweet baby onions and verjus, and I recommend the crisply cooked red mullet with a hazelnut crust. A raviolo came with a stuffing of delicious sweetbreads with bolognese sauce, parslied carrots and Savoy cabbage–a little complex but quite good.

In the times I've eaten Ferguson's food here, at Monteverde and at Ramsay's, I've found his meat dishes superior in flavor to his seafood, and the same goes for the menu at A&D. Colorado lamb chops with a classic persillade of parsley, braised neck of lamb and potato puree is the kind of hearty food that will never go out of style, while his slow-roasted pork belly with pickled pear, sweet parsnips and a touch of fenugreek syrup was superb. But both braised filet of John Dory with a cauliflower cream, parsley roots and trompette mushrooms was only alright, and fillet of cod with fennel was bland. Look back over the items I've mentioned and you'll also find a very European preference for soft textures, whereas American food has made texture a crucial factor in cooking. Case in point: Ferguson's poached bone marrow dressed with paddlefish caviar was a dish I just didn't have the palate to try.
  
Desserts, all $12, are, in a word I try not use too often, scrumptious–from a chocolate-hazelnut crunch terrine with milk sorbet and blood oranges (now there was some texture!) to sweet cream French toast with oatmeal ice cream and caramelized banana. A passion fruit crème brûlée with spiced coconut sorbet and marinated pineapple was a delight. There is also a selection of farmhouse cheeses, if you prefer.

The prices for just about everything at A&D are very reasonable for this standard of cuisine, with appetizers $14-$18 and entrees $24-$29, which is particularly refreshing because so much more buys you so much less in inferior area restaurants.

John Mariani is well known for his frank and poignant writing in Esquire, Wine Spectator, Diversion and the Harper Collection. He is author of The Encyclopedia of American Food & Drink, The Dictionary of Italian Food and Drink and co-author, with his wife, of the Italian-American Cookbook.