Ducasse and Joël Robuchon
Old Enemies Bury the War Hatchet
in the Ovens
of November 23, 2005, the Relais du Parc is offering
a "best of" menu consisting of select specialties
by the new dynamic duo, Alain
Ducasse and Joël
Robuchon, whose long-time rivalry made headlines
in the past.
Four dishes by Ducasse and Robuchon each are offered
on the menu at this former annex of celebrated restaurant
“59” (currently closed for renovations),
where Robuchon bid farewell in 1996, and where his
successor, Ducasse, began his tenure that same year.
Of course, gourmets are still raving about the meals
served here in the past by these illustrious chefs,
such as Robuchon’s savory tart of truffles,
onions and smoked bacon, or Ducasse’s langoustines
from Southern Brittany, enhanced with Iranian caviar,
and also his caviar gelée with a cauliflower
purée or, better yet, wild hare from the Loire
Valley either "à la Royale" (stuffed
with foie gras and roasted), or stewed in a civet.
fantastic menu above may someday become a reality
again, but today we can enjoy Robuchon’s cream
of pumpkin soup, whiting in an herb and butter sauce
(€27), cabbage stuffed with pigeon and foie gras
(€34), or Ducasse’s version of crispy bacon
and Pompadour potato casserole (€30), red mullet
filets with Niçoise-style Swiss chard, or his
signature baked macaroni with butter, ham and truffles
(€15). A few very refined desserts, inspired
by the two chefs, complete the meal. The wine cellar
is rich with important wines from Burgundy, fussed
over by sommelier Gérard Margeon. The best
bottles are, for the most part, also served by the
glass, or in carafes.
collaboration—unthinkable when the two star
chefs were in competition for the lead role—is
the result of crossed destinies, from Monte Carlo
to Las Vegas, and of their common links with the Accor
Group. Their endeavor, based on a well-adapted marketing
scheme and on the revitalization of a restaurant,
is a timely one, similar to that of Alain
Senderens, who reduced the bill of fare by a third
at his new “bistrocized” namesake.
smiles: Alain Ducasse, André Gayot, Joël
Robuchon and Sophie Gayot
prix-fixe lunch menu is €45 including appetizer,
main course, a glass of wine and coffee. Count on
€70 à la carte.
Relais du Parc
57, avenue Raymond Poincaré
01 44 05 66 10
Open for lunch and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.