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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fenouil Restaurant Review: Chef Jake Martin has transformed what was once a fairly pedestrian yet wildly expensive French restaurant into a still pricey but now notable bastion of French-influenced Northwest cuisine. Planted in the center of the trendy Pearl District and overlooking the urban Jamison Square park, Fenouil’s handsome, glass-fronted space welcomes diners with a soothing mix of buttery cream tones. An open kitchen, fireplace and balcony add to the interior charm. A few classic French preparations such as vichyssoise remain on the menu, but most dishes now show a local enthusiasm for bending the “rules." Martin's ability to combine old favorites in new ways shows up in several winners: Lamb tartare with olives, corn risotto, or a roasted duck breast with zucchini cakes, and pommes frites with duck fat. This is a top choice for a memorable dinner or brunch with visiting out-of-towners or favorite family members.