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Fera at Claridge's Restaurant Review: The Art Deco dining room at Claridge’s is as pretty as a picture, reached via a red paneled ante room. Revamped since Gordon Ramsay’s departure, it’s all gentle greys and greens with a rather odd, definitely designer-inspired bare tree in the middle. There’s a semi-open kitchen, unadorned walnut tables, and slate and stone crockery. The décor is a reflection of the food, courtesy of Simon Rogan, who made a name for himself at L’Enclume in Cartmel. Fera means “wild” in Latin and the chef is famous for his foraging, using earthy flavors that transform skillful cooking. Dishes are described by their ingredients that produce flavor combinations such as raw veal and oysters, smoked cauliflower, gooseberry and sweet cicely; or puffed barley, smoked eel and watercress to start. Classic aged Herdwick hogget lamb with sweetbread, cucumber, yoghurt and blackberry; or Cornish lobster, pickled golden beetroot, dittander and sea herbs may follow. Many of these are served by the chefs who created them. The one universal criticism is of the desserts that are bland affairs: a sheep’s yoghurt mousse with milk flakes, black cherries and Douglas fir, and even the chocolate cream, apple marigold, cultured meringue and rapeseed fail to deliver the expected punch, which is a shame as at this level you should walk away feeling that this was an experience like no other. But it’s early days and Rogan is a clever and experienced chef so no doubt it will improve with time. The wine list is interesting but there’s little under £100, so if you really want a great meal you need to factor that into the equation. 3-course Mon.-Fri. lunch £45; menus at £85 and £105.