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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Figaro Bistro Restaurant Review: Two Frenchmen, Philippe Bollache and Laurent Gabrel, are behind this popular bistro that attracts Queen Anners and Seattle Center patrons in equal numbers. Perhaps thats why the casually sophisticated interior, with its black-and-white checkerboard tile floor, Impressionist reproductions on cream-colored walls and bevy of smokers at the dark wood bar, feels so French. Chef Gabrel borrows from different regions of his homeland, but sticks close to traditional bistro fare. The onion soup, built on a robust veal stock, is flavored with brandy and port. Croutons spread with zesty rouille balance on the edge of the bouillabaisse, the fish and shellfish bathed in a delicate yet lush, saffron-laced broth. For coq au vin, the meat is taken from the bone and sauced with a reduction of Cabernet Sauvignon and mushrooms enriched with duck demi-glace. Calvados infuses the sauce for sautéed medallions of veal Normandy. Steak frites is simply wonderful. Of course, for dessert there is tarte tatin, profiteroles, chocolate mousse and crème brûlée---all house-made. About the only thing not thoroughly French about this place is the very reasonably priced wine list, which contains some American vintages.