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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Fins Restaurant Review: Unassumingly tucked into one of North Raleigh’s many strip shopping centers, this small, modern restaurant is one of the city’s hidden treasures. Chef-proprietor William D’Auvray’s cuisine resounds with the accumulated echoes of his childhood years in the Philippines, more than a decade of experience in Franco-Japanese cuisine in Southern California, and palette-broadening work at The Ritz-Carlton in Washington, DC. The resulting fusion is consistently fresh and on the mark, presented in a daily changing menu that leans heavily to seafood and Asian flavors. Starters might include the likes of peekytoe crab soufflé with lobster coral butter, citrus-grilled sushi-grade squid with shiitake mushrooms and asparagus in chili-garlic sauce, and foie gras terrine with grilled mango and pineapple-ginger conserve on brioche toast and organic arugula. Main dishes are just as refreshingly innovative: grilled Scottish salmon over Thai-spiced fava beans; crispy Fijian Tai snapper with sticky rice and a stir-fry of wild mushrooms and Asian greens; seared sea scallops in a yellow curry; honey- and star anise-glazed duck breast; and noisettes of lamb in a crunchy, fragrant crust of pine nuts and mint.