At this dining room in the JW Marriott hotel, days begin with mortadella and fried egg sandwiches and move onward to antipasti, pizzas turned from a wood-burning oven and pastas, such as squid ink spaghetti with lump crab, Serrano chiles and mint. When available, we recommend the Brussels sprouts salad --- a lemony melding of shredded flash-seared and raw cabbage with Marcona almonds, currants and nutty Pecorino. And the savory-leaning butternut squash caramelle, crowned with candied walnuts, brown butter, sage and amaretti? It’s one of the better things we’ve eaten in ages. Get the plush, pillow-like bomboloni with a trio of dipping sauces for dessert. Libations --- which range from Sicilian lemonade to spritzers --- can come off as rather cloying, so stick with the wines, some of which are available by the quartino.
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