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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fogao Gaucho Restaurant Review: The Brazilian steak feast called churrascaria has become an Atlanta institution, and here comes another entry into the niche. Gaucho-garbed waiters circle the room and stop by tables showing green on their disks to indicate we're ready for meat. As soon as you sit down, you'll be presented with some fried plantain and yucca, but go slowly as there's a lot of meat coming. Start at the generous salad bar, and be sure to taste the delectable potato salad. Then comes the round of meats, our favorite being the picanha, a round sirloin that's best savored rare. But also good are the bacon-wrapped chicken, the sausage and especially the lamb. There are beef ribs, too, and, well, it just keeps coming until you turn your disk to red to stop the gaucho guys in their tracks. Unusual in a churrascaria, there's swordfish, but it comes out a bit dry. Still, it will be appreciated for effort by guests who don't eat red meat. For dessert, get one of the fruit mousses---we like the passion fruit---although the corn flan is unusual and interesting in taste and texture. The well-priced wine list even offers some choices from Brazil, and you can get caipirinha, Brazil's answer to the margarita. Also located at 84 Peachtree St. NW, Atlanta, 404-477-1700.