 Subtly stylish Fork is a welcome change over San Anselmo’s glut of casual dining options. Though opening chef Scott Howard has moved on, the food continues to shine through chef Nathan Lockwood, who has chosen to incorporate more Mediterranean flavors into the menu. Diners are offered a three-, four- or five-plate prix-fixe menu. Choose from first-courses like charred octopus salad, carpaccio of bluenose sea bass or roast breast of squab. Move on to the second course of Yukon Gold potato gnocchi with a Bolognese beef ragù, stinging nettle ravioli with wild mushroom and veal sweetbread ragù or pappardelle with Burgundy snails. Third course offerings include boneless braised oxtail and Prime dry-aged rib-eye steak for two, followed by a three-cheese fourth course. For dessert, decide if you can between a Meyer lemon cake with strawberry and rhubarb purée, an almond and Medjool date crostata with Armagnac gelato and macerated apricots and cherries, or a terrine of chocolate cake, caramel custard and Florentine tuile with gianduja. Amidst the flurry of plates emerging from the kitchen, it is easy for well-intentioned servers to fall behind. The 50-bottle wine list is well done, but only offers a few options by the glass.
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