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The Fort Restaurant Review: Founder Sam Arnold’s daughter, Holly Arnold Kinney, now owns what may be the hallmark destination for the person hungry for wild western culinary culture. Touting nine different dining rooms and seating capacity for 350, the adobe-and-timbers re-creation of the late Bent Fort overlooks the city skyline and is a worthy bastion of Colorado kitsch --- although the food doesn't live up to the views. Much like the Buckhorn Exchange in Denver, the foothills establishment, nestled among towering red sandstone rocks, serves a stockyard of game meats, exotic meats, organ meats and familiar suspects like pork, cattle and fish, none of which are particularly noteworthy, save for the buffalo rib-eye. Starters include Rocky Mountain oysters, otherwise known as bull testicles, rattlesnake cakes and braised bison tongue. Desserts are vast and varied --- and big --- but the triple layer chocolate cake flecked with red chile and drizzled with Kentucky bourbon is hard to pass up.