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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED French American Brasserie Restaurant Review: F.A.B., as it is known locally, is a contemporary French brasserie with an interior that is crisply modern yet captures the warmth of the Gaslight Era ambience it left behind at its former location. At night, lamps are dimmed, creating a most romantic glow. The fundamentals of French cooking are well executed, so there's no sparing the cream and butter. Moreover, the service is American-style warmer but still professional. Signature dishes include a silky white bean soup traced with a touch of truffle oil. The huge portion of mussels in a creamy, rich broth arrives as an appetizer, but could easily be a main dish. As at the original restaurant, skate wing is offered in its traditional preparation with capers and brown butter. Sweetbreads are top flight. French American Brasserie does a first-rate job with its extensive shellfish and fish dishes, not overcooking any by so much as a notch. Duck confit, boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin make the French side of the menu even tastier. Taking a page from the American steakhouse is a lengthy list of steaks and chops and accompanying sauce options. Desserts are traditional French: crème brûlée, crêpes, galettes and profiteroles. The wine list is largely French, and offers many good choices by the glass. Several private dining accommodations include a rooftop space that provides a view of the ever-changing Atlanta skyline.