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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The French Table Restaurant Review: In suburban New Orleans, nouvelle cuisine and arrogant service fly about as high as a tethered penguin. That may account for the durability of The French Table's robustly traditional approach to French cooking and dining-room service. The cooking reflects the early training of the restaurant's founder, chef Gérard Crozier, in the kitchens of his native Lyon. In other words, it's hearty, richly sauced and invariably satisfying. The décor in the nearly windowless dining room is brightened with soft ochre walls, large mirrors and dark-wood accents. They all set the mood for a definitive coq au vin, Gruyère-crusted onion soup, filet mignon sauce périgourdine, and veal escalopes in cream with shrimp. Accompaniments are appropriately substantial---as in buttery, garlicky potatoes dauphinoise and nicely seasoned rice pilaf. Service is consistently pleasant and efficient, and the wine list is sufficiently diverse, if not challenging.