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Fume Bistro & Bar Restaurant Review: Most tourists sitting in traffic at the mouth of Highway 29 in Napa breeze by this bistro in their haste to forge deeper into wine country. This may be why it’s so densely populated by locals---or maybe it’s the weekday happy hour. Artwork can lean to the bizarre---marionette puppets, polka-dotted horses and fairy fantasies---but it doesn’t overwhelm, partly because of the windows, facing a broad patio, that brighten the space. The menu sports a range of appetizers such as deep-fried spring rolls stuffed with duck confit and cabbage, served with Chinese restaurant-style sweet-and-sour for dipping; wood-oven-roasted artichoke with lemon- and olive-oil-dressed arugula; mammoth salads; and a trio of pizzas from which to choose. Hearty entrées include a meaty slab of baby-back ribs with salty Parmesan frites and chipotle barbecue dipping sauce, and risotto with flavorful hunks of lamb and a sweet blend of buttery balsamic cipollini onions and braised leeks. With these portion sizes, good luck making it to dessert. Bonus points for a decent wine list for so casual a place and fast-clip service.