* Click here for rating key
Fusco's Via Roma Italian Trattoria Restaurant Review: Fusco family traditions, notably from Sicily and Calabria via Brooklyn, Little Italy and the real Rome, make it to the table in this suburban antebellum Atlanta town. Occupying one of several restored early twentieth-century storefronts, the restaurant does a good job with crisply fried sweet calamari with traditional marinara sauce and lemon. Although the chicken hunter-style (cacciatore) came a little dry and tough, the lemon chicken was moist and tender. Familiar fare includes sausage and peppers on a hoagie roll, lasagna and veal Marsala. A few pizzas also are offered. For winemaker dinners, chef David Fusco gets friskier, turning out such dishes as a carpaccio of sea scallop with shaved fennel or a semifreddo of dark chocolate and blueberries. Otherwise, the house-made vanilla bean gelato is a dessert winner. The wine list mingles American and Italian choices, including some very good value selections, such as the Allegrini Valpolicella Classico or the Velletri Sangiovese/Merlot blend (both well priced at $32). From the American side, the Rotta Heritage Zinfandel (Paso Robles, Calif.) pairs beautifully with many dishes, including anything with sausage.