THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gabriel's

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Gabriel's Restaurant Review:

Gabriel Viti clocked time across the tracks at Carlos' before becoming conductor of this culinary performance. Fortunately for us, his work --- witnessed through an open kitchen --- is usually quite good. The room itself is nothing special, but the food is another story entirely. With one foot in Italy and one in France, chef Viti has plenty of room to stroll. And he does just that (with swagger) with his pasta creations, which are always creative and flavorful. Then again, the papillote of sea bass with lemon and herb vinaigrette is topnotch, and the kitchen works wonders with the lobster, mango, white truffle and Parm risotto. A good way to sample a cross-section of the menu is to order the dégustation menu ($75 or $105 with wine). The service is professional, the noise level is hushed, and the comfort level is high. The wine list boasts 1,400 selections with more than 11,000 bottles on hand, priced from $25-$2,200, including many of the finest wines from both major vineyards and smaller wineries. Cellar selections may be purchased retail with advance arrangement.