 Gary Danko Restaurant Review: Gary Danko thrives at its perch at the top of San Francisco dining. Along with a classy but comfortable ambience, delightful food and a wine list with plenty of intriguing options among its 1,800 selections, the restaurant has what many consider the best service in the city. Tasteful modern art adorns the walls, and subdued brocade on banquettes and touches of light wood mesh in serene style. Diners may select three ($73), four ($92) or five ($107) prix-fixe courses. To fully appreciate the experience, go for the five-course tasting menu ($107) with wine pairing (add $73) since the captains and sommelier are well versed in the all-encompassing list. To start, consider the glazed oysters with osetra caviar, salsify and lettuce cream, or French red pumpkin soup with butternut squash, apples, saba and bacon. For seafood, one may opt for seared sea scallops paired with parsnip purée, melted leeks and king trumpet mushrooms, while meat entrées might include lamb loin, herb-crusted, complemented by Israeli couscous, rainbow carrots, dates and green chermoula. The cheese cart requires exploration; it's a shrine that epitomizes Danko's enthusiasm. Choose from the international artisan selections, or head straight to dessert. The tableside flambéed banana and crêpes filled with mascarpone, served with caramel ice cream, as well as the chocolate soufflé with two sauces are standouts.
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