Gauthier Soho

Gauthier Soho Restaurant Review:

Alexis Gauthier made his considerable name at Roussillon in Chelsea, then moved to Soho to what was formerly Lindsay House run by Richard Corrigan. It’s now a pretty, neutral-colored and elegant space with a French respectful feel to it. It’s the food that shines here and top ingredients are well chosen: from the first course, perhaps pork cheek and chorizo tortellini with bay leaf and pork consommé, or a fruit and vegetable pot au feu with lightly spiced apple and quince and late summer Italian truffle. Move on to autumn truffle risotto with Acquerello rice, aged Parmesan and jus de roti, then the choice is between meat and fish. Dorset Arctic char with courgette flower, tomato fondue and roasted garlic, or wild mallard with baby beetroot and turnip, glazed daikon and blackberry liver toast. This is classic cooking, done with skill and a remarkably light touch. As at Roussillon, there’s a first-rate vegetarian menu as well. The wine list is mainly French and at the top end. At these prices, this is a real treat. 3 dishes £45, 4 £55, 5 £65. Set lunch and pre-theatre menus 2 courses £18, 3 courses £25. Set 8-course tasting menu £75, or £135 with wine pairings.