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THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED NAMES Gemelli on Main Restaurant Review: Clark Gilbert, whose résumé includes time at Restaurant Taquet and the Four Seasons under Jean-Marie Lacroix, opened Gemelli in 2009 in nearby Narberth. But this incarnation --- a tri-level, contemporary space that includes a full bar --- is a better fit to showcase his polished cuisine. With the front of the house overseen by the creative and capable David Howard, who has managed for Stephen Starr and Jose Garces among others, Gemelli on Main delivers a sophisticated dining experience, without a bit of artifice. Many of the seasonal menu items speak to Gilbert’s expertise in French cuisine, such as the soulfully complex signature gemelli, a bolognese with tender rabbit. We also recommend the crispy trout filet paired with a fricassée of Brussels sprouts, pancetta and hazelnuts. More options include barramundi with Serrano-wrapped squid, and braised pork cheeks with Parmesan polenta and vegetables. For dessert, try the fluffy beignets with chocolate dipping sauce or a silky flourless chocolate cake. The wine list, a joint effort between Gilbert and Howard, spotlights boutique producers from Spain, Italy and Sardinia, along with a strong showing of new-world vintages from California and New Zealand. Every Monday, guests can BYO with no corkage fee. There's a good happy hour with nibbles during the week.